to step back, now and then, from the possible to take rest in the impossible: to stand without trajectory in the God-given weather till the soul's identity begins to come with the weathering: to get off my own laboriously cleared and maintained trails and back onto the pristine hence unmarked path by moving, any old how, toward interior nakedness; toward silence; toward what Buddhists call "emptiness" and the Christians "poverty in spirit"....David James Duncan

Wednesday, October 07, 2009

does this still work?
I feel like I am looking at another person's blog...but as I look close I think I recognize a younger version of myself...I think I remember the sights and words and the feelings that accompany them...I wonder how to connect that person with the person I am now...after all the travels, the people and the places...who am I now?

Monday, October 15, 2007

The Route of the Andes

8 bus rides, 1 train ride and 1 flight comprised our travels down the Andes from North to South and back again...this small country, the size of Nevada, has endlessly changing beauty...every bus, train, plane window held a different yet equally amazing view...Ecuador is truly a country to spend a lifetime in...here are the places we experienced:

Banos: an outdoor adventure capital, a small mountain town that sits in the shadow of Tungurahua, an active, smoldering volcano, which last erupted only a year ago (for the full story ask Susan Wood)...a route of waterfalls, hot springs and fresh taffy are some of the attractions that make this place famous...

Riobamba: a normal enough city that has become a major stop for tourists because it is the starting point of a famous 6 o'clock AM train ride through the mountains, including a crazy trip down a section called "El Nariz del Diablo" (the devil's nose)...it used to be more fun because they let people sit on top of the train, but last year a tourist fell off and lost his head, sooooo...they put a stop to that....but it was still a fun BUMPY ride through some gorgeous scenery


Cuenca: a beautiful old colonial city with cobble stones streets, cool architecture and, get this, a CLEAN river running through it....oh yeah and it's the origin of the "Panama Hat".




Vilcabamba: Valley of Eternal Youth...myth has it, that the water holds special powers to keep you going up to 130 years...because of that, retired foreigners have flocked in and set up a peaceful, simple town...it is known for it's tranquility, great hiking and cheap massages

16 hours in a bus or 70 minutes on a plane...that was our choice.....there was a great sunset from the plane window...the Andes look a lot different when you are above them...as we flew over the middle of the country, we were blessed with a view of Chimborazo, the highest peak in the western hemisphere...






We have seen the light!!! The sky opened before our eyes and we saw where we are headed next...we have decided to leave South America on our original plane ticket, which was a surprise to us...we will be heading to New Hampshire for the holiday months and will continue seeking out our next adventure...what can we say, we love you guys to much to stay away...

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

Annivesary in the Cloud Forest


A cloud forest is basically a sub-tropical forest where the clouds drop down into the trees and create an enchanted forest feeling...we had heard of a little town called Mindo that is built in the middle of a beautiful cloud forest area...it is surrounded by small mountains covered in thick vegetation and has several rivers, each with its own series of waterfalls, flowing through it...Mindo is known for its beauty and peaceful vibe...we thought those would be nice for our anniversary weekend.

We found a cool sounding eco-lodge in the guide book and blindly made reservations...the price told us that it was on the higher end of things, but you never really know down here...we read about private riverside cabins and candle light dinners and that was good enough...as it turns out, it was more than we ever could have imagined...

To get to the property we drove 20 minutes down a dirt road, then crossed the River Mindo in a hand operated "tarabita" (there are no bridges, which means no automobiles on the property).
We stayed in a huge river-side cabin...we think they hooked us up because we told them it was anniversary. It was luxury done in the most simplistic way...such creative uses of wood and stone...it had 25 foot ceilings with sky-lights in the thatched roof, a bath tub laid in stones with huge double windows that opened onto the lush forest...no electricity, only candles and oil lamps...we were speechless.


From the cabin we headed down wooded paths and crossed bamboo bridges to the "main house", which once again was an unexpected jewel...a gigantic, open-air bamboo structure, with oversized furniture, hammocks, creative fire places, huge wooden tables used for communal candlelight dinners...the main house bordered an extensive organic garden that supplied the kitchen with 3-course, gourmet, vegetarian meals...

El Monte consists of over 100 acres of cloud forest...there are trails deep into the thick forest where you can find exotic birds, plants and insects...you can also hike to several beautiful waterfalls, one of which you have to cross a huge river basin (152m high) in a metal basket hooked to steel cables...

The weekend trip was the perfect mixture of adventure, peace and romance...we brought our wedding vows with us, the ones that Paul has had since the wedding last year, and we reminded ourselves of the promises and commitments we made....oh yeah, and we managed to find some mud and rubber boots to celebrate the occasion!!

Tomorrow we take off on a two week trip down the Andes to southern Ecuador...if you want to follow on a map, here are our stops: Banos, Riobamba, Cuenca, Vilcabamba and Loja.

We love you and miss you....know that you are in our thoughts and prayers...Elena y Mateo

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Back in Quito

After 11 days on the coast we have made it back to Quito. We took a night bus last night and climbed 10,000 feet in 8 hours...twisting around crazy mountain roads in the pitch black...there were times we would wake up and have it feel like the bus was going to flip over! But, we pulled, unharmed, into Quito at 6:00 am this morning and are now relaxing at Paul and Beth's apartment. It is such a blessing to have a home base...laundry, food, friends, free bed!

Our time on the coast proved to be exactly what we were looking for...we worked on our spanish, we utterly relaxed, and we meagerly tried to surf. Some highlights from the coast:
  • Finca Rio Muchacho, a funky little organic farm where made chocolate from scratch--straight from the Cacao plant, made rings out of royal palm tree seeds, and toured the amazingly self-sufficient facilities...they make their own cooking gas from animal poop and water!!
-roasting Cacao beans-
  • Paul, Jill and Elliot: the inspiring English family who are traveling around south america in old Land Rover, which they shipped over from Africa, after being safari guides for 11 years...Elliot is a knowledgeable 4 year old chap who happens to share our birthday...they were at the same hotel as us for the whole time, however they slept on top of their truck while we slept in our room
  • Migelito: a 98 year old Galapagos turtle in a local school yard. so stinkin huge!!
  • Ron and Kathy: another inspiring couple who sailed to Ecuador from Alaska and are about to head across the south pacific...after an afternoon on their boat, we are tossing around the idea hitching a ride from here to Panama on a sail boat
Our next journey will be a weekend in the cloud forest to celebrate our 1 year of marriage...we will be thinking of all of you who gathered there in person and in spirit to support the start of this journey together.

We love you all and miss you dearly...you are in our thoughts and prayers....

strategically withdrawn...elena y mateo

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Mochilleros en Ecuador


This blog was created a long time ago, long before Elin believed in the magic of the internet. The title of the blog comes from an essay by David James Duncan in his semi-autobiography, My Story as Told by Water. If you haven´t read it, check it out. The essay is about the purposeful withdrawal out of our normal lives...stepping out of the rat race or the mundane in order to recieve a new frame of reference or just to experience life without distraction...to just be, in a strategic sense. It just so happens that our trip to latin america was just that, a strategic withdrawal...

Though somewhat egocentric, this blog is an attempt to allow our friends and family to experience our travels with us as well as hear about what we have gained from our purposeful trip to the south lands. We will do our best to update with stories and pictures, but it will not be play by play.


We have been in Ecuador for 2 weeks. The first week was spent with the Reverend Paul Reichert (who is our good friend that was ordained online last september and performed our marraige ceremony). Paul is also our ninja triplet, in that we all share the same birthday. Paul and his wife Beth live in Quito, which is the capital city of Ecuador. It is a typical latin american city with nearly 2 million residents. There is a beautiful old colonial part of town with numerous cathedrals, plazas and musuems all echoing the history of spanish control. The old town has just recently become safe for tourists to visit it´s mysterious streets and buildings.
There is almost a line drawn in the cement where the old town ends and the newer part of quito begins. They are literally called the old and new, Quito Nuevo y Quito Viejo. The new town is filled with modern malls, gated communities and embassor complexes.

Paul works 30 minutes outside of Quito at an amazing place called El Refugio (The Refuge). It is an old hacienda that has been converted into a retreat center/adventure camp. The property consists of 300 acres, including the side of a mountain(11,000 ft), two peaks and a ridge, a ravine which is spawned by a huge zipline, a high and low ropes course, a huge tree house (we are talking swiss family robinson here!!) horses, llamas, a big pig, a shack full of guinnea pigs which are considered gourmet eating. Paul runs the program side of the retreat center. He facilatates groups of youth from Quito and the surrounding areas, with the purpose of raising up leaders and cultivating leadership skills.
Our first week was spent checking out Paul and Beth´s life in Ecuador. After we got our barrings, we ventured off on our first excursion to the town of Otovalo, home of one of south americas largest indigenous markets. It was a sprawl of colorful artesanos items for a fraction of the price that it is worth. We arrived the day before the big market day, which is wednesday. So we just purused the market and got harrassed by the vendors. We stayed the night in a cool backpackers hostal. It had a courtyard of hammocks hanging from a huge avocado tree and an outdoor fireplace that was perfect in the cool mountian evening. On market day we struck early and filled our small backpacks with beautiful handwoven items...gifts for friends and family:) After the market expereince we hopped a bus for the more peaceful town of Cotacachi. We spent the night at an amazing old hotel that had a spanish hacienda feel to it. Cotacachi is famous for its production of leather goods. There is a whole street of stores bursting with leather coats, boots, bags, belts, hats...all so stinkin cheap! We almost snag a sweet slicker for Elin but could not part with the cash.

From the northern highlands we headed to the coast, which is where we are writing from now. We hitched a ride with Paul and Beth in their sweet old school Land Cruiser. The roads out of Quito were unreal...cut right into the sides of the mountains...we dropped from 10,000ft to sea level in a course of 6 hours, passing through cloud forests and taffy making towns. Paul and Beth hung out with us and played on the beach for the weekend and then headed back to Quito.

We are in a sleepy fishing village turned surf spot called Canoa. It is an up and coming tourist spot that bumps on the weekends and is silent during the week. We are staying at the Hotel Bambu, which is on the edge of the beach and has the classic tables in the sand coastal vibe. We are taking spanish classes from a cute spanish girl who is also a fellow traveler, who decided to set up shop for a few months in Canoa. Every night we go to her simple wooded house and practice our spanish at her table. It has been a great way to gain insights on this town and this country.

It is here in Canoa that we getting to practice our strategic withdrawal skills. We are without plans, agendas, time limits, obligations...we dont even know when we will be leaving here. We are spending the days reading, writing, talking, praying and being still...and oh yeah, eating huge plates of seafood, surfing and looking for treasures on the beach...

Thursday, March 01, 2007

An afternoon to remember...



Three bikes, six people, miles of winding New Hampshire roads...